Welcome to the third and final entry in our mini-series about some of the latest additions to our collection of 18th-century menswear here at York Castle Museum. In this post you’ll find out about a surprisingly sparkly two piece suit from the 1780s – take a look at the photos in the gallery at the bottom of the page.

At first glance, it might look like there’s nothing special about this suit. It’s made of buff coloured wool in a simple cut, and consists of a jacket and a pair of breeches. But when we take a closer look, it has a few surprises in store.

In the second half of the 18th century, pale colours were the preserve of the wealthy. While many working class people wore plain linen and undyed wool, their outer garments tended to be made of fabrics that wouldn’t show up the dirt. Only the wealthy could afford to keep a pale-coloured suit looking pristine. Wool was easier to care for than silk, and very practical – not only was it warm, but a woollen broadcloth like the one used for this suit would have been showerproof as well.

Broadcloth is a fabric that has been fulled. Fulling is a finishing process applied to some types of woollen cloth – it felts the fibres of the cloth together, creating a surface that water can’t easily soak into. It’s also warmer, because it traps air more effectively.

Broadcloth has very little stretch to it – spot the curve of the sleeves. In this period sleeves were cut on a curve to make it easier for people to move their arms. It also made it easier for people to achieve a fashionable posture with slightly bent elbows – considered a mark of elegance and good breeding at the time.

So, this suit is cosy and practical. But it’s also very flashy.

The most exciting details are the buttons. Although they look quite dull now, all of the dark grey areas on the buttons are actually tarnished silver, and they would have gleamed brightly when they were new. Not only are they covered in silver, but the buttons are also decorated with green metallic spangles. Spangles are like sequins, but made of coiled wire that has been hammered flat – sequins are made of flat metal cut out with a punch.

The buttons would have been made by a specialist embroidery workshop, either at the request of the buyer or the tailor. Spangles and silver ornaments were made by skilled craftspeople, and would not have been cheap. They would have made this suit glimmer by day or in candlelight – a subtle yet ostentatious look.

With these three blog posts, we hope that we’ve given you an insight into a few of the luxuries and practicalities of fashionable menswear in the 18th century. If you have any questions or if you would like to share your thoughts about these fascinating items, please leave a comment at the bottom of this page. Visit us at York Castle Museum to see some of the other costumes we currently have on display.